Agarwood oil, Indonesia (CAS 1333524-00-7) — Woody Base Note Fragrance Ingredient
Agarwood oil, Indonesia
CAS 1333524-00-7
What Is Agarwood oil, Indonesia?
Agarwood oil, also known as oud, is a rare and precious fragrance ingredient derived from the resinous heartwood of Aquilaria trees infected by mold. It’s most commonly encountered in luxury perfumes, incense, and traditional Middle Eastern fragrances. This oil carries deep cultural significance and commands high prices due to its complex aroma and the endangered status of its source trees.
Safety Profile
USE WITH AWARENESSWhat Does Agarwood oil, Indonesia Smell Like?
Agarwood oil unfolds with an initial medicinal bitterness that quickly gives way to profound woody depths. The scent evolves into a mesmerizing interplay of smoky leather, sweet balsamic undertones, and animalic warmth. Dry-down reveals facets of aged wood, honeyed tobacco, and a lingering incense-like quality that persists for days. The Indonesian variant often displays brighter top notes with fruity nuances compared to other regional varieties.
In Famous Fragrances
Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.
Showcases Indonesian agarwood’s smoky sweetness blended with cardamom and sandalwood, creating a modern interpretation of oud that maintains its exotic character while being wearable.
Pioneering use of agarwood in Western perfumery, combining its medicinal facets with woody amber notes for a controversial yet groundbreaking masculine fragrance.
Intense pairing of rose and agarwood where the Indonesian oil provides a slightly fruity counterpoint to the floral heart.
Blends agarwood’s complexity with vanilla and benzoin, softening its edges while maintaining the signature woody-balsamic character.
Uses Indonesian agarwood for its brighter top notes, combining with citrus and pink pepper for a fresher take on oud compositions.
Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide
The Chemistry
Agarwood oil contains hundreds of sesquiterpenes and chromones, with key constituents including agarospirol, α-agarofuran, and jinkoh-eremol. The unique composition results from fungal infection triggering resin production in Aquilaria trees. Indonesian varieties typically show higher concentrations of oxygenated sesquiterpenes compared to other regional ouds. Extraction methods vary from hydrodistillation to supercritical CO2, each yielding oils with different molecular profiles. The complex mixture includes both volatile and semi-volatile compounds that contribute to its extraordinary longevity.
Physical & Chemical Properties
| Appearance | Viscous dark brown liquid |
|---|---|
| Solubility | Soluble in alcohol and oils |
Perfumer Guide
| Application | Typical % | Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fine Fragrance | 0.5-2% | Up to 5% | Used sparingly due to intensity |
| Incense | 5-15% | Up to 30% | Traditional religious use |
| Home Fragrance | 1-3% | Up to 10% | Often diluted in blends |
Classic Accords
Tip: Balance agarwood’s intensity with citrus top notes or sweet vanillic bases to create more approachable compositions.
Alternatives & Comparisons
Recreates some woody aspects at lower cost, lacks the full complexity but useful for budget formulations.
Offers similar smoky wood notes without animalic facets, works well for cleaner oud interpretations.
Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability
⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer
General reference only. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating.
IFRA Status
No specific IFRA restrictions, but subject to general guidelines for wood oils. Recommended maximum 5% in leave-on products.
EU Allergen Declaration
Not listed as EU allergen, but may contain trace amounts of naturally occurring sensitizers.
RIFM Assessment
RIFM has evaluated agarwood oil and found it safe at current usage levels, though recommends caution due to potential sensitization.
Sustainability
Wild agarwood is CITES Appendix II listed due to overharvesting. Sustainable production now comes from cultivated trees inoculated with fungi. Synthetic alternatives help reduce pressure on natural supplies. Ethical sourcing certifications are increasingly important for this ingredient.
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References
- Naef R. (2011). The volatile and semi-volatile constituents of agarwood. Flavour and Fragrance Journal. DOI:10.1002/ffj.2034
- Chen et al. (2012). Chemical constituents of agarwood originating from Indonesia. Natural Product Communications. DOI:10.1177/1934578X1200701228
Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Apr 2026.
Report a data errorIngredient Data Sheet
CAS 1333524-00-7Physical data: PubChem (NIH/NLM), U.S. EPA CompTox Dashboard, EPA OPERA models, RDKit. Odor & flavor: Arctander (Perfume & Flavor Chemicals), Fenaroli's Handbook of Flavor Ingredients, Leffingwell. Thresholds: van Gemert (Compilations of Odour Threshold Values). Regulatory: IFRA Standards 51st, FEMA GRAS. Trade names: Surburg (Common Fragrance & Flavor Materials). All data compiled and cross-referenced for perfumertools.com.
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