Chamomile flower absolute (CAS 8002-66-2) — Sweet Heart to base Note Fragrance Ingredient
Chamomile flower absolute
CAS 8002-66-2
What Is Chamomile flower absolute?
Chamomile flower absolute is a luxurious aromatic extract obtained from chamomile flowers, commonly encountered in premium skincare, aromatherapy oils, and high-end perfumery. Its golden-green color and viscous texture signal its artisanal production process. This ingredient matters because it carries chamomile’s legendary soothing properties in concentrated form, offering both fragrance benefits and skin-comforting effects prized in holistic wellness products.
Safety Profile
GENERALLY SAFEWhat Does Chamomile flower absolute Smell Like?
Chamomile absolute unfolds with an intense honeyed sweetness layered over herbaceous greenness, like warm hay drying in a summer meadow. The initial burst mellows into a complex heart where apple-like fruity facets intertwine with woody-tea nuances. As it dries down, reveals a soft powdery character reminiscent of chamomile tea steam, with lingering balsamic warmth. Unlike the essential oil, the absolute carries deeper tobacco and leather undertones from solvent extraction, creating remarkable tenacity on skin.
In Famous Fragrances
Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.
Features chamomile absolute as the star ingredient, capturing its honeyed floralcy against honeysuckle’s luminosity. The absolute’s depth prevents the composition from becoming overly sweet, adding sophisticated herbaceous structure.
Uses chamomile absolute to create a nostalgic summer-garden effect. Its apple-like facets blend with green notes while the absolute’s tobacco undertones provide subtle masculine counterpoint.
Leverages chamomile absolute’s balsamic warmth to bridge citrusy coriander and woody base notes. The absolute’s tenacity helps maintain the fragrance’s herbal signature throughout wear.
Showcases chamomile absolute’s complex duality – pairing its honeyed top with crisp citrus, while the absolute’s leathery base integrates seamlessly with oakmoss in this modern chypre.
Uses chamomile absolute to add textural depth to neroli’s brightness. The absolute’s powdery drydown creates a skin-scent effect that enhances the cologne’s longevity.
Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide
The Chemistry
Chamomile absolute contains over 120 identified constituents, with sesquiterpenes (α-bisabolol, chamazulene) and flavonoids (apigenin) predominating. The blue pigment chamazulene forms during steam distillation from matricin precursors. Absolute production via hydrocarbon solvent extraction preserves higher molecular weight compounds compared to essential oil, including triterpenoid alcohols and fatty acid esters that contribute to its exceptional fixative properties. German chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) typically yields absolutes with higher chamazulene content (2-15%) than Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile), which contains more esters like angelates.
Physical & Chemical Properties
| Appearance | Dark green to blue viscous liquid |
|---|---|
| Solubility | Soluble in alcohol, fixed oils; insoluble in water |
| Specific Gravity | 0.89-0.96 g/cm³ |
| Refractive Index | 1.4380-1.4560 |
Key Constituent Properties
| Constituent | CAS | MW | BP °C | XLogP | Vapor P. |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| α-Bisabolol | 515-69-5 | 222.37 | 153 °C | 5.2 | 0.001 mmHg |
| Chamazulene | 529-05-5 | 184.28 | 275 °C | 3.8 | 0.0003 mmHg |
| β-Farnesene | 18794-84-8 | 204.35 | 125 °C | 5.9 | 0.03 mmHg |
Perfumer Guide
| Application | Typical % | Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fine Fragrance | 0.5-2% | Up to 5% | Adds sophisticated herbal-honey nuances |
| Skincare | 0.1-0.5% | Up to 1% | Functional benefits alongside fragrance |
| Aromatherapy | 1-3% | Up to 5% | Used for its calming properties |
| Home Fragrance | 0.5-1.5% | Up to 3% | Provides natural herbaceous character |
Classic Accords
Tip: Add at 35-40°C to ensure complete incorporation in alcohol bases without losing top notes.
Alternatives & Comparisons
More complete phytochemical profile with higher bisabolol oxide content. Preferred when maximum skin benefits are desired alongside fragrance.
Lighter, fruitier profile with less color impact. Better for citrus-forward compositions needing chamomile’s apple facets.
When chamomile’s honeyed aspects aren’t needed but bisabolol’s soothing properties are required in clear formulations.
Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability
⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer
General reference only. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating.
IFRA Status
No restrictions under IFRA 49th Amendment. Chamazulene content self-limits usage due to strong coloration.
EU Allergen Declaration
Contains farnesene (CAS 502-61-4) which may require declaration above 0.1% in leave-on products.
GHS Classification
RIFM Assessment
RIFM assessment confirms safe use at current industry levels, with chamazulene content monitored for potential sensitization.
Sustainability
Chamomile cultivation requires minimal pesticides, making it relatively sustainable. Solvent recovery during absolute production reaches 85-90% efficiency. Some producers now offer CO2-extracted versions with lower environmental impact than traditional absolutes. Supply remains stable with major production in Eastern Europe and North Africa.
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References
- Salamon, I. (2009). Chamomile Biodiversity. Acta Horticulturae. DOI 10.17660
- EMA (2015). Assessment report on Matricaria chamomilla L. EMA Report
- McKay, D.L. (2006). Chamomile: Herbal Medicine. Molecular Nutrition & Food Research. PMID 16671044
Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Apr 2026.
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