Fenugreek absolute (CAS 68990-15-8) — Sweet Heart to base Note Fragrance Ingredient

Sweet · Spicy

Fenugreek absolute

CAS 68990-15-8

Origin
natural
Note
Heart to base
IFRA
Use with awareness
Data as of: Apr 2026

What Is Fenugreek absolute?

Fenugreek absolute is a rich, aromatic extract derived from the seeds of the fenugreek plant, commonly encountered in perfumery and gourmet cooking. Its warm, maple-like aroma adds depth to fragrances and culinary creations alike. This ingredient matters because it bridges the gap between food and fragrance, offering a unique olfactory experience that evokes comfort and familiarity while providing complexity to scent compositions.

Safety Profile

USE WITH AWARENESS
Generally safeUse with awarenessProfessional use
Safe in regulated concentrations
Potential allergen – check product labels
CAS
68990-15-8
Formula
Mixture
MW
Variable
Odor Family
Sweet · Spicy
Layer 1 · Enthusiast

What Does Fenugreek absolute Smell Like?

Fenugreek absolute unfolds with an intensely sweet, caramelized top note reminiscent of maple syrup and burnt sugar, layered with a savory undertone that hints at celery and curry. As it evolves, the heart reveals a complex interplay of nutty, roasted tones with a subtle bitterness akin to roasted coffee beans. The dry-down is warm and woody, with lingering gourmand qualities that blend seamlessly into skin, creating an edible yet sophisticated aura. Its transformative journey from sugary sweetness to earthy depth makes it a favorite for adding dimension to oriental and gourmand fragrances.

Scent Profile

In Famous Fragrances

Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.

Fève Délicieuse(Dior, 2015)

Fenugreek absolute enhances the gourmand heart with its maple-like sweetness, blending with tonka bean and vanilla to create a delectable, dessert-like fragrance that remains sophisticated.

Bois d’Arménie(Guerlain, 2006)

Used sparingly to add a warm, slightly medicinal depth that complements the benzoin and vanilla, giving the fragrance a comforting, almost edible quality.

Ambre Nuit(Dior, 2008)

Fenugreek’s caramelized nuances enrich the amber accord, adding a subtle gourmand twist to the otherwise resinous and floral composition.

Spicebomb(Viktor & Rolf, 2012)

Contributes to the spicy-sweet explosion, pairing with cinnamon and saffron to create a bold, addictive scent with a gourmand edge.

Fenugreek adds a warm, slightly bitter counterpoint to the dry, spicy amber, evoking the scent of exotic markets and sun-baked earth.

Layer 2

Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide

The Chemistry

Fenugreek absolute is obtained through solvent extraction of Trigonella foenum-graecum seeds, yielding a complex mixture of volatile and non-volatile compounds. Key odorants include sotolon (3-hydroxy-4,5-dimethyl-2(5H)-furanone), responsible for its characteristic maple syrup aroma, alongside fatty acids, alkaloids, and steroidal saponins. The absolute typically contains trace amounts of coumarin and vanillin, contributing to its sweet, balsamic facets. Chirality plays a role in its scent profile, with (R)-sotolon being significantly more potent than its (S)-enantiomer. Industrial production often involves CO2 extraction for a cleaner olfactory profile.

Physical & Chemical Properties

AppearanceDark brown viscous liquid
SolubilitySoluble in alcohol, insoluble in water

Perfumer Guide

Note Position
Heart to base
Volatility
Moderate (2-6 hours)
Blending
Good with spices, amber, vanilla
ApplicationTypical %RangeNotes
Fine Fragrance0.5-2%Up to 5%Adds gourmand warmth
Home Fragrance1-3%Up to 8%Creates comforting ambiance
Functional Products0.1-0.5%Up to 1%Used sparingly for olfactory impact

Classic Accords

+ Vanilla + Tonka = Gourmand + Saffron + Cinnamon = Spice + Amber + Labdanum = Oriental

Tip: Balance fenugreek’s sweetness with dry spices or woody notes to prevent cloying effects.

Alternatives & Comparisons

1
Sotolon CAS 28664-35-9

Pure synthetic form of fenugreek’s key aroma molecule for precise maple-caramel effects without the absolute’s complexity.

2
Maple Lactone CAS 654-16-8

Offers similar sweet-gourmand character with less savory depth, useful when a cleaner maple note is desired.

Layer 3

Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability

⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer

General reference only. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating.

IFRA Status

No IFRA restrictions. Approved for use in all categories.

EU Allergen Declaration

None. Not listed in EU allergen regulation (EC) No 1223/2009.

RIFM Assessment

RIFM evaluation confirms safe use at current industry levels.

Sustainability

Fenugreek is cultivated as a crop primarily in India and the Mediterranean, with sustainable farming practices increasingly adopted. Absolute production has moderate environmental impact due to solvent use, though some producers employ greener extraction methods. Synthetic alternatives like sotolon offer more controlled sourcing but lack the absolute’s natural complexity.

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References

  1. Blank et al. (1992). Key Odorants in Fenugreek. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry. DOI: 10.1021/jf00021a004
  2. PubChem Compound Summary for Sotolon CID 3426

Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Apr 2026.

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Ingredient Data Sheet

CAS 68990-15-8
Data Sources & Attribution
Physical data: PubChem (NIH/NLM), U.S. EPA CompTox Dashboard, EPA OPERA models, RDKit. Odor & flavor: Arctander (Perfume & Flavor Chemicals), Fenaroli's Handbook of Flavor Ingredients, Leffingwell. Thresholds: van Gemert (Compilations of Odour Threshold Values). Regulatory: IFRA Standards 51st, FEMA GRAS. Trade names: Surburg (Common Fragrance & Flavor Materials). All data compiled and cross-referenced for perfumertools.com.

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