Oakmoss Absolute (CAS 9000-50-4) — Woody Base Note Fragrance Ingredient
Oakmoss Absolute
CAS 9000-50-4
What Is Oakmoss Absolute?
Oakmoss Absolute is a prized fragrance ingredient derived from lichens growing on oak trees. You’ll find it in classic perfumes, especially in fougère and chypre compositions. This dark, earthy material adds depth and complexity to fragrances, creating a sense of forest floor and ancient woodlands.
Safety Profile
USE WITH AWARENESS
What Does Oakmoss Absolute Smell Like?
Oakmoss Absolute unfolds with an initial damp, earthy burst reminiscent of a rain-soaked forest floor. The heart reveals complex layers of woody, slightly sweet nuances with a distinctive mushroom-like undertone. As it dries down, it transforms into a warm, leathery base with hints of seaweed and tobacco. The scent profile is simultaneously fresh and decaying – like sunlight filtering through ancient oak trees onto moss-covered stones. Its tenacious character makes it perfect for anchoring fragrances, adding a mysterious, primal quality that lingers for hours.
Scent Profile
In Famous Fragrances
Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.
Oakmoss provides the earthy, green foundation that balances the sharp galbanum and iris in this iconic chypre, creating a sophisticated forest-like aura.
The oakmoss in this legendary chypre adds depth to the peach accord, creating the perfect contrast between fruity brightness and damp woodland mystery.
Used sparingly here, oakmoss lends a subtle mossy undertone to the citrus-herbal structure, enhancing its masculine freshness with natural complexity.
Oakmoss combines with lavender and citrus in this classic fougère, creating the perfect balance between herbal freshness and woody depth.
The oakmoss here amplifies the patchouli’s earthy qualities, contributing to the perfume’s intense, lingering green-woody signature.
Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide
The Chemistry
Oakmoss Absolute is a complex mixture obtained through solvent extraction of Evernia prunastri lichen. Its key odorants include atranorin, chloroatranorin, and various terpenoids. These lichen acids contribute to the characteristic earthy-mossy scent profile. Modern perfumery often uses treated oakmoss absolutes where the more allergenic compounds are removed or reduced, while maintaining the desired olfactory characteristics. The extraction process typically yields a viscous, dark green to brown material with high tenacity.
Chemical Composition
Physical & Chemical Properties
| Appearance | Viscous dark green to brown paste |
|---|---|
| Solubility | Soluble in alcohol, oils; insoluble in water |
| Flash Point | >100°C |
Key Constituent Properties
| Constituent | CAS | MW | BP °C | XLogP | Vapor P. |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Atranorin | 479-20-9 | 374.3 | N/A | 3.2 | N/A |
| Chloroatranorin | 479-22-1 | 408.7 | N/A | 4.1 | N/A |
Perfumer Guide
| Application | Typical % | Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fine Fragrance | 0.1-1% | Up to 2% | IFRA restricted – check current limits |
| Soap | 0.05-0.3% | Up to 0.5% | Adds rich, lasting base notes |
| Candles | 0.1-0.5% | Up to 1% | Excellent for forest-themed scents |
| Cosmetics | 0.01-0.1% | Up to 0.2% | Use treated absolutes for compliance |
Classic Accords
+ Lavender + Coumarin = Fougère
+ Citrus + Amber = Modern Woody
+ Rose + Vetiver = Dark Floral
Tip: Pre-dilute in alcohol before adding to formulas to ensure even distribution of this viscous material.
Alternatives & Comparisons
Similar mossy character but with more pronounced woody notes. Often used alongside or as partial replacement for oakmoss in IFRA-compliant formulas.
Synthetic alternative that captures the mossy, woody aspects without allergenic concerns. Works well in modern chypre reconstructions.
Patchouli fraction that provides earthy depth similar to oakmoss, often used in combination with synthetic mosses for compliance.
Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability
⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer
General reference only. IFRA, REACH, EU Cosmetics Regulation standards update periodically. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating. Not legal or regulatory advice.
IFRA Status
Restricted under IFRA Standard (Amendment 49) due to atranol and chloroatranol content. Maximum 0.1% in leave-on products, treated absolutes recommended.
EU Allergen Declaration
Atranol and chloroatranol must be declared above 0.01% in finished products under EU Regulation No 1223/2009.
GHS Classification
RIFM Assessment
RIFM has conducted extensive safety assessments leading to current IFRA restrictions. Treated absolutes show reduced allergenic potential.
Sustainability
Wild-harvested oakmoss faces sustainability challenges due to slow growth rates. Responsible sourcing from managed forests in Mediterranean regions is increasing. Some perfumers are turning to cultivated lichen alternatives or molecular reconstructions to reduce environmental impact while maintaining olfactive quality. The industry is developing more sustainable extraction methods that yield higher quantities from less biomass.
Explore Oakmoss Absolute
Browse essential oils and aroma compounds.
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Industry & Science Data
References
- Shibamoto, T. (2008). Introduction to Food Toxicology. Academic Press. ISBN 9780123742865
- IFRA Standards Library IFRA Website
- Baldovini, N. et al. (2011). Phytochemical Analysis of Oakmoss. Flavour and Fragrance Journal. DOI:10.1002/ffj.2045
Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Mar 2026.
Ingredient Data Sheet
CAS 9000-50-4Regulatory Status
| IFRA Listed | Yes — see IFRA Standards for category limits⚖️ IFRA 51 |
Physical data: PubChem (NIH/NLM), U.S. EPA CompTox Dashboard, EPA OPERA models, RDKit. Odor & flavor: Arctander (Perfume & Flavor Chemicals), Fenaroli's Handbook of Flavor Ingredients, Leffingwell. Thresholds: van Gemert (Compilations of Odour Threshold Values). Regulatory: IFRA Standards 51st, FEMA GRAS. Trade names: Surburg (Common Fragrance & Flavor Materials). All data compiled and cross-referenced for perfumertools.com.
