Rose absolute (low methyleugenol) (CAS 90106-38-0) — Floral Heart Note Fragrance Ingredient

ByThe Good Scents
Floral · Sweet

Rose absolute (low methyleugenol)

CAS 90106-38-0

Origin
natural
Note
Heart
IFRA
Generally safe
Data as of: Apr 2026

What Is Rose absolute (low methyleugenol)?

Rose absolute is a luxurious floral extract derived from rose petals, cherished in perfumery for its rich, romantic scent. You’ll encounter it in high-end perfumes, skincare products, and candles. This ingredient matters because it captures the true essence of roses without the sharpness of synthetic rose compounds, offering unparalleled depth and warmth to fragrances.

Safety Profile

GENERALLY SAFE
Generally safeUse with awarenessProfessional use
✓ Safe in regulated products
⚠ Potential allergen – check labels
CAS
90106-38-0
Formula
Mixture
MW
Variable
Odor Family
Floral · Sweet
Layer 1 · Enthusiast

What Does Rose absolute (low methyleugenol) Smell Like?

Rose absolute opens with an intoxicating burst of dewy petals, as if walking through a morning garden after rain. The heart reveals honeyed sweetness with subtle spice, like Turkish delight dusted with cinnamon. Dry-down evokes antique velvet—deep, slightly powdery, with lingering traces of ripe fruit and green stems. Unlike synthetic rose notes, it maintains complexity for hours, never becoming cloying.

Scent Profile

In Famous Fragrances

Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.

Nahema(Guerlain, 1979)

Uses rose absolute to create a hypnotic, almost surreal rose—layered with peach and spices to amplify its narcotic quality while avoiding heaviness.

Portrait of a Lady(Frederic Malle, 2010)

Showcases rose absolute’s depth by contrasting it with dark patchouli and incense, creating a gothic romantic effect.

Rose 31(Le Labo, 2006)

Modern twist where rose absolute’s sweetness is roughened with cumin and cedar, making it strikingly gender-neutral.

Layer 2

Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide

The Chemistry

Rose absolute is obtained through solvent extraction of Rosa damascena or centifolia petals, concentrating hundreds of aromatic compounds including phenylethyl alcohol (up to 60%), citronellol, and geraniol. The low methyleugenol variant undergoes additional processing to reduce this potentially irritating component below 0.02%. Unlike rose oil (steam distilled), absolutes retain heavier molecules that contribute to their characteristic honeyed facets.

Physical & Chemical Properties

AppearanceViscous orange-brown liquid
SolubilitySoluble in alcohol, fixed oils; insoluble in water

Perfumer Guide

Note Position
Heart
Volatility
Medium (2-6 hours)
Blending
Excellent
ApplicationTypical %RangeNotes
Fine Fragrance0.5-3%Up to 5%Anchor for floral bouquets
Skincare0.1-0.5%Up to 1%Adds luxury feel to creams
Candles1-2%Up to 3%Provides rich throw without sooting

Classic Accords

Tip: Add a touch of geranium oil to brighten rose absolute’s darker facets.

Alternatives & Comparisons

1
Rose Otto CAS 8007-01-0

Steam-distilled rose oil for a fresher, more transparent rose effect.

2
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol CAS 60-12-8

Synthetic alternative when cost or allergen concerns limit absolute use.

Layer 3

Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability

⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer

General reference only. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating.

IFRA Status

No restrictions. Methyleugenol content must be <0.02% in this variant.

EU Allergen Declaration

Contains geraniol (CAS 106-24-1), citronellol (CAS 106-22-9), and farnesol (CAS 4602-84-0)—requires allergen labeling above 0.001% in leave-on products.

RIFM Assessment

RIFM considers rose absolute safe at current usage levels when methyleugenol is controlled.

Sustainability

Bulgarian and Turkish rose farms dominate production, requiring ~8,000 hand-picked petals per gram of absolute. Some brands now use CO2 extraction for higher yield with less solvent waste. Synthetic rose compounds can reduce agricultural pressure but lack the full spectrum of natural absolutes.

Explore Rose absolute (low methyleugenol)

Browse essential oils and aroma compounds.

Browse on iHerb →

Affiliate disclosure: we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

References

  1. Dobson H.E.M. (1994). Floral volatiles in insect biology. CRC Press.
  2. PubChem Rose Absolute Chemical database

Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Apr 2026.

Report a data error

Ingredient Data Sheet

CAS 90106-38-0
Data Sources & Attribution
Physical data: PubChem (NIH/NLM), U.S. EPA CompTox Dashboard, EPA OPERA models, RDKit. Odor & flavor: Arctander (Perfume & Flavor Chemicals), Fenaroli's Handbook of Flavor Ingredients, Leffingwell. Thresholds: van Gemert (Compilations of Odour Threshold Values). Regulatory: IFRA Standards 51st, FEMA GRAS. Trade names: Surburg (Common Fragrance & Flavor Materials). All data compiled and cross-referenced for perfumertools.com.

Similar Posts