Shea butter oil, fixed (CAS 91080-23-8) — Sweet Base Note Fragrance Ingredient

Sweet · Woody

Shea butter oil, fixed

CAS 91080-23-8

Origin
natural
Note
Base
IFRA
Generally safe
Data as of: Apr 2026

What Is Shea butter oil, fixed?

Shea butter oil is a luxurious, skin-nourishing ingredient derived from the nuts of the African shea tree. People encounter it in high-end skincare products, lip balms, and hair conditioners for its deeply moisturizing properties. This oil matters because it’s rich in fatty acids and vitamins that repair skin barrier function while adding a subtle, nutty warmth to fragrance formulations. Its natural origin and skin benefits make it increasingly popular in clean beauty products.

Safety Profile

GENERALLY SAFE
Generally safeUse with awarenessProfessional use
Non-toxic and edible grade
No known allergen concerns
CAS
91080-23-8
Formula
Mixture
MW
Variable
Odor Family
Sweet · Woody
Layer 1 · Enthusiast

What Does Shea butter oil, fixed Smell Like?

Shea butter oil offers a delicate, comforting aroma reminiscent of roasted nuts with whispers of warm vanilla. Its scent profile is soft and creamy, like freshly churned butter left to mellow in a wooden churn. The top notes carry faint green nuances that quickly give way to a heart of rich, nutty sweetness with a texture that feels almost edible. In dry-down, it leaves a subtle, skin-like musk that blends seamlessly with other base notes, acting as a natural fixative that enhances longevity without overpowering.

Scent Profile

In Famous Fragrances

Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.

Tam Dao(Diptyque, 2003)

Shea butter oil provides the creamy, woody foundation that makes this sandalwood fragrance feel like warm skin. It bridges the gap between sharp cedar and soft vanilla, creating a luxurious texture.

Eau Duelle(Diptyque, 2010)

Used sparingly to round out the vanilla and spice notes, shea butter adds a comforting, almost edible quality that makes this fragrance feel like a warm embrace.

Santal Blush(Tom Ford, 2011)

The shea butter note here creates a velvety texture that makes the sandalwood and spices feel more intimate and skin-like, enhancing the fragrance’s sensual character.

Layer 2

Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide

The Chemistry

Shea butter oil is composed primarily of triglycerides containing oleic acid (40-60%), stearic acid (20-50%), linoleic acid (3-11%), and palmitic acid (2-9%). These fatty acids give it exceptional emollient properties. The unsaponifiable fraction (5-17%) contains valuable phytosterols like α-amyrin and lupeol, along with vitamin E compounds. Unlike refined shea butter, the oil retains more volatile compounds that contribute to its subtle aroma. Cold pressing preserves these components, while solvent extraction yields a more neutral product.

Chemical Composition

Physical & Chemical Properties

Melting Point32-45 °C
Saponification Value178-190 mg KOH/g
Iodine Value53-65 g I2/100g

Perfumer Guide

Note Position
Base
Volatility
Very low (days)
Blending
Excellent
ApplicationTypical %RangeNotes
Skincare Fragrance1-5%Up to 10%Adds skin affinity and substantivity
Fine Fragrance0.5-2%Up to 5%Used as a natural fixative
Candles3-7%Up to 15%Enhances throw of gourmand notes

Classic Accords

Tip: Melt gently at low heat (below 50°C) to preserve aroma compounds when incorporating into bases.

Alternatives & Comparisons

1
Cocoa Butter Oil CAS 8002-31-1

Offers similar emollient properties with a more pronounced chocolate-like aroma, better suited for gourmand compositions.

2
Mango Butter Oil CAS 68917-73-7

Lighter alternative with fruitier nuances, ideal when shea’s nutty character might overwhelm delicate floral compositions.

Layer 3

Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability

⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer

General reference only. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating.

IFRA Status

No IFRA restrictions. Approved for all applications without limitations.

RIFM Assessment

RIFM considers shea butter oil safe as used in current fragrance practices, with no significant sensitization potential.

Sustainability

Shea butter production supports women-led cooperatives in West Africa, providing vital income while maintaining traditional harvesting methods that protect shea parklands. The slow-growing trees sequester carbon and prevent desertification. Fair trade initiatives ensure sustainable wild harvesting without deforestation. Cold-pressed oil has lower environmental impact than solvent-extracted versions.

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References

  1. Maranz S. et al. (2004). Fatty acid profiles of shea nut and shea butter. Journal of Food Composition and Analysis. DOI:10.1016/j.jfca.2003.09.009
  2. Honfo F. et al. (2014). Nutritional composition of shea products. Food Chemistry. DOI:10.1016/j.foodchem.2013.08.129

Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Apr 2026.

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Ingredient Data Sheet

CAS 91080-23-8
Data Sources & Attribution
Physical data: PubChem (NIH/NLM), U.S. EPA CompTox Dashboard, EPA OPERA models, RDKit. Odor & flavor: Arctander (Perfume & Flavor Chemicals), Fenaroli's Handbook of Flavor Ingredients, Leffingwell. Thresholds: van Gemert (Compilations of Odour Threshold Values). Regulatory: IFRA Standards 51st, FEMA GRAS. Trade names: Surburg (Common Fragrance & Flavor Materials). All data compiled and cross-referenced for perfumertools.com.

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