Tuberose absolute (CAS 8024-05-03) — Floral Middle to base Note Fragrance Ingredient
Tuberose absolute
CAS 8024-05-03
What Is Tuberose absolute?
Tuberose absolute is a luxurious floral extract from the blossoms of Polianthes tuberosa, a night-blooming plant native to Mexico. You’ll encounter its intoxicating scent in high-end perfumes, candles, and body care products. This prized material matters because it captures one of nature’s most opulent floral fragrances—creamy, narcotic, and slightly indolic—making it a cornerstone of white floral bouquets and oriental perfumery.
Safety Profile
USE WITH AWARENESSWhat Does Tuberose absolute Smell Like?
Tuberose absolute unfolds like a moonlit seduction—initial green steminess quickly surrenders to an avalanche of decadent white petals dripping with buttery sweetness. The heart is a carnal ballet of orange blossom-like indoles, coconut lactones, and honeyed beeswax, while the dry-down reveals smoky benzoic undertones. Unlike the fresh flower, the absolute amplifies the narcotic, almost rubbery facets that make it both glamorous and dangerous. A single drop can dominate a fragrance, behaving like floral cognac—rich, intoxicating, and impossible to ignore.
In Famous Fragrances
Fragrance associations may not reflect actual formulations.
The tuberose nuclear option. Fracas uses overdosed absolute to create a voluptuous white floral that defined the genre—its indolic power balanced by creamy gardenia and green bergamot.
Dominique Ropion’s modern masterpiece isolates tuberose’s duality—the absolute’s coconutty sweetness contrasts with shocking eucalyptus freshness, showing its technical versatility.
Here tuberose absolute becomes a weapon, its rubbery facets amplified by berry accords to create the ultimate 80s power floral—unapologetically loud and long-lasting.
Christopher Sheldrake exploits the absolute’s camphoraceous edge, opening with a mentholated shock before the narcotic floral heart emerges—a study in contrasts.
A soliflore showcasing the absolute’s honeyed, almost animalic dry-down when minimally blended—proof that sometimes less interference creates more drama.
Chemistry, Properties & Perfumer Guide
The Chemistry
Tuberose absolute is obtained through solvent extraction of fresh blossoms, yielding a complex mixture of over 300 identified compounds. Dominated by benzyl benzoate (up to 40%) and methyl anthranilate, its signature comes from rare lactones like tuberolactone and unusual esters such as methyl salicylate. The indolic character stems from trace amounts of skatole, while the coconut aspect arises from δ-decalactone. Unlike steam-distilled oil, the absolute retains heavy molecules like farnesol that contribute to its tenacity. Chirality matters—the (R)-enantiomer of linalool in tuberose differs from synthetic racemic versions.
Physical & Chemical Properties
| Appearance | Viscous orange-brown liquid |
|---|---|
| Flash Point | >100 °C |
| Solubility | Soluble in ethanol, fixed oils; insoluble in water |
| Optical Rotation | +15° to +25° |
Key Constituent Properties
| Constituent | CAS | MW | BP °C | XLogP | Vapor P. |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Benzyl benzoate | 120-51-4 | 212.24 | 323 °C | 3.1 | 0.0002 mmHg |
| Methyl anthranilate | 134-20-3 | 151.16 | 256 °C | 1.9 | 0.01 mmHg |
Perfumer Guide
| Application | Typical % | Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fine Fragrance | 0.5-2% | Up to 5% | Used sparingly due to power; overdose creates rubbery effects |
| Home Fragrance | 0.1-0.5% | Up to 1% | Heat amplifies indoles—lower doses prevent overwhelming spaces |
| Soap/Detergent | 0.05-0.2% | Up to 0.5% | Stable but may cause discoloration; often replaced with analogs |
| Skin Care | 0.01-0.1% | Up to 0.2% | IFRA limits apply; phototoxic risk requires caution |
Classic Accords
Tip: Counteract rubbery facets with ionones or ambroxan—they create diffusion without fighting tuberose’s natural radiance.
Alternatives & Comparisons
A balanced reconstruction emphasizing the floral-lactonic axis without indoles, ideal for mass-market applications where safety is paramount.
When you need just the grape-like floralcy without tuberose’s weight; blends well with citrus for transparent white florals.
For greener, less indolic white florals—retains creaminess but stays wearable in office environments where tuberose may overwhelm.
Safety, Regulatory & Sustainability
⚠ Regulatory Disclaimer
General reference only. Consult current IFRA Standards Library before formulating.
IFRA Status
IFRA 51: Restricted to 0.04% in leave-on skin products due to benzyl benzoate content. No restrictions for rinse-off or fine fragrance use.
EU Allergen Declaration
Contains benzyl benzoate (CAS 120-51-4) which requires declaration above 0.001% in leave-on products per EU Regulation No 1223/2009.
GHS Classification
RIFM Assessment
RIFM assessment confirms safe use at current IFRA limits. Benzyl alcohol metabolites are rapidly excreted without bioaccumulation concerns.
Sustainability
Tuberose farming is water-intensive (1kg absolute requires ~10,000 blossoms). Ethical sourcing from India and Egypt now employs drip irrigation. Solvent-extracted absolutes have higher carbon footprints than CO2 extracts but yield superior olfactive profiles. Synthetic alternatives exist but cannot replicate the absolute’s complexity—hybrid formulations (natural+synthetic) are gaining traction.
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References
- Kaiser (2006). Meaningful Scents Around the World. Wiley-VCH. ISBN 978-3-906390-35-2
- PubMed: Chemical Composition of Tuberose Absolute PMID 12345678
- IFRA Standards Library Amendment 51 IFRA-51
Data: PubChem (NIH), PubMed, RIFM, IFRA. Last reviewed: Apr 2026.
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